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I Forge Iron

Unscrewing screws with force


natkova

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Usually heating to expand the metal and an impact to break the rust bonds works. Otherwise use a good penetrating oil and let it soak. Hit it every now and again to break the rust bonds and reapply the penetrating oil to let it soak in deeper. It took a while to rust shut so take some time and go slow in order to break it loose.

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Greetings Nat,

 

I have been restoring machinery for years ,  and a auto mechanic for 32....  You are correct ..  The reason for hitting or using a impact style driver is that you cause a vibration in the incline plane of the threads which compacts the rust and allows for lubrication to get into the spaces..  That is what heating does with expansion..    I have had much success using a pneumatic air hammer ,  heat, and a good solvent .  and PATIENCE..  Rule of thumb .. If you bull it ,,, it will brake.. I hope this helps

 

Forge on and make beautiful things

Jim

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I do it all the time, works good. They also have impact drivers that you put the screwdriver bit in, then smack with a hammer.

If you have a drill press you can put the screwdriver bit into the drill chuck, then use the feed handle to keep the bit forced into the screw head as you turn the chuck to loosen the screw. I have done this with several tight screws on firearms to keep the screw slot from getting torn out.

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Thanks for guys tips.I did this. I unscrew old valve in school that are need to be dissasembled.And it need a litle bit force.Some guys don't have  feeling and get bolt busted.The bolt was made from brass.It is really fragile material.valve_strainer_pipe.jpg

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was part of a team working on restoring an orangery, had hundreds of steel screws in cast iron, others tried and got 1 in 10, destroying the rest, I got about 98% out with no problems.

placed an 8mm  ( 5/16 ) not on the screw head or top of the tread if the head had gone and filled it with the mig, kept a spanner ready to turn the nut whilst it was still glowing, back and forth a few times and then out

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  • 3 weeks later...

If it is a Philips screw with a damaged head,put an elastic band between the head and screwdriver and push driver well home BEFORE trying to loosen it. If a steel bolt is broken and stuck in threads then mig weld a piece of scrap across the bit sticking out. The heat will help to loosen it.Brass being softer is better to drill and use an extractor,for cast do as Iron Dwarf suggests. Whichever method you use,it's better to loosen a little at a time.

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  • 1 month later...

I've had crayons in my toolbox for years to solve rusted stuck screws and bolts.
Heat the head, tap gently and touch the crayon to the edge. It smokes if it's to hot but you'll see the wax wick into the threads. I tap the part til the wax solidifies some then give it a turn. Rarely do I need to repeat.

Also it's imperative that you use only the white crayons! Cause your kid doesn't use the white ones anyway and they get mad when you jack their favorite color :-)

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  • 1 month later...

was part of a team working on restoring an orangery, had hundreds of steel screws in cast iron, others tried and got 1 in 10, destroying the rest, I got about 98% out with no problems.

placed an 8mm  ( 5/16 ) not on the screw head or top of the tread if the head had gone and filled it with the mig, kept a spanner ready to turn the nut whilst it was still glowing, back and forth a few times and then out

Actually this works even better if you let it entirely cool before turning. 

Two reasons; 

1. The warm or hot bolt is soft (weak)

2. The warm or hot bolt is enlarged. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Tightening does indeed work well on occasion.  If the hole is a through hole ( and the bolt is broken in the hole) use a standard drill.  The bolt can then have the option of going through.  If a blind hole or other area where you must have the fastener come back out, use a left hand drill.  Right hand drill will tighten the fastener in the hole.  I have used square tapered extractors but not in years.  Your Mileage may vary.  I have used flat stock, angle iron and or nuts and welded this to the inside of the hole or to the screw head.  A slight turn tightening and let it set sometimes is the ticket, sometimes not.  I use ATF or Kroil these days more than anything but Marvel Mystery oil works very well.  Some larger ones in castings just have to be blown out with a torch and than use a cape chisel to clean the hole and run a tap trough to clean up..  Indeed a soak and a 6 point socket may solve the issue and save the bolt too.

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